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Newb Axle help needed.....long read.

3K views 29 replies 8 participants last post by  PavementPounder 
#1 ·
Don't know if this should be here, or in Jeep Tech, if need be, Mods, please feel free to move it. So here goes.....

Ok, here is the situation. I am a self proclaimed Newb with the whole jeep thing, and wheeling in a whole. I know what my ultimate goal is, and ideas of how to accomplish those goals, but I’m looking for two things here, advice on what I should be looking for because I don’t know enough about the details to know what I should get, and I don’t want to waste money by buying the wrong things (Which I think I already might have). Second, I’m looking for someone who would be interested in helping me by doing the fabrication, as I have no tools, place to work, or any experience with fabrication to do this work, but I would like to learn, so I would be more than willing to be there to help. Here is what I have, and what I think I’m looking for.

I have a 2000 TJ
4.5” Rubicon Express Long arm Lift with rear tri-link
1.5” Body lift on from previous owner
4.0 I-6 with D30 front D35 rear with 4.10 gears and 32” tires
Currie HD steering

I also have a 99 explorer 8.8 with open diff 4.10’s and disc brakes, and 5 37” tires (Bought them from a guy at work for a deal that I couldn’t pass up.)

So here is the issue, I want to put the 37”s on. I know the axles I have won’t hold up.I'm also planning on possible getting a new stearing box (I think I have heard that the durango box fits and is stronger, along with bracing the stearing box. I bought the ford 8.8 before I had the 37’s, when I originally planned on only running 35”. I had thought about buying a super 8.8 and then a super 30 and regearing the axles, and putting lockers in, but I know that that isn’t the right path (at least I don’t think so). So now I’m thinking about buying different axles (D-60’s) But I don’t really know what is best for me at this point. I know I want to get some stout axles for both front and rear. I just don’t know what ones I should be looking for, or what would be the easiest to fit under the Jeep. Should I look for ford axles, dodge, chevy. Then when it comes to the front end, I’m even more clueless on what I should be looking for.

So I guess basically, I’m looking to buy a couple of axles that can withstand the 37’s, and then looking for someone who can build them for me with my limited help over this winter into early spring. (getting the right brackets on the axle, re-gearing, and adding a locker of some sort, either ARB, or an electric selectable locker) and then to help me get them under the jeep in Spring so I can get the jeep going. This jeep will be my daily driver for the next year, but is not a big deal because I live ½ mile from work. After this year, I will have another vehicle come spring of 08, and the jeep will only be used for weekend/ off-road/ winter fun driving. The only other requirement that I have is that the parking brake still works.

So anyone who could help me with good information, anyone who has an axle, or set of axles that would be good for me to use, and most importantly, anyone who would like to do some work for me, please let me know. I’m looking to get the axles and start getting them built right after the 1st of the year. Just to make it clear, I’m not looking for free help, I am more than willing to pay someone, I would just rather find a person rather than a shop, so that I can maybe be part of the build, and start to learn more about my jeep and working on it.

Thanks in advance, and please feel free to post information here, PM, or email me at Solless@gmail.com

Eric
 
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#2 ·
the ford explorer 8.8 will hold up to your 37's just fine, but the front axle should be replaced.

depending on your wheeling style, and wheeling area a wagoneer dana 44 would be a good choice for 37's. they are a readily available axle, and are wider than stock, but narrower than full width. i believe the wagoneer 44 is 62" WMS to WMS, so i think that is a good width.

5.13 gears will probably be the best choice for gears.

if the front dana 44 won't hold up to the abuse you put it through, you could always get alloy shafts, and run regular joints, or yukon/ox/ctm joints if those don't hold.

there are literally hundreds of options for you to consider when building you your jeep.

Rubicon Express makes an axle bracket kit for TJ's you can get for axle swaps, and i believe you can get them for the front or rear.

Hope this helps, and good luck
 
#3 ·
the 8.8 should hold up; you will obviously need to get some different brackets for it though, they are a lot stronger than the d-35 at least and if it has disk brakes it's even better for ya. if you can't frind a different front, just get some warn shafts with the larger u-joint, makes the 30 a lot stronger. my factory steering box works great w/ 35's. i can turn the wheel w/ one finger, so 37's won't take too much more effort. get a brace for the box though, the frame loves to rust/break where the box mounts. you'll probably want 4:88's for your gears if you aren't going to dd it after the build is complete. good luck finding someone close to help out, i'd help if you were closer.
 
#4 ·
See, that's where I'm running into confusion. Do you really think that spending the money to do a superior axle kit in the 8.8 and the D30 versus spending the money to buy more stout axles? The super 88 costs about $500 and it's about the same for the D30. I would have to think that I could find some used axles that I could get fabbed for roughly the same price or less, especially since I would need to get the rear 8.8 fabbed up anyway. That's where I started to think I would be better off getting better axles, versus trying to just improve on what I have, hence why I am posting.
 
#5 · (Edited)
Super 8.8 and build a narrowed hp44. I went with the dana 60s only becuase 37s are not the max for me. Building any axle for a tj is gonna cost money. 8.8 is a strong axle and the right width which saves alot of money narrowing. Plus it has disc brakes which saves more money. A hp44 is a nice match for the 8.8. Grandman just built one in the post your rig section http://www.greatlakes4x4.com/showthread.php?t=28607 . I would help you out but I am pretty far from ya.
 
#8 ·
Heres my thoughts on this . Dana 60 is huge , build that and you need another 2 " of tire of more to clear the same obsticle .

HP 44 as pavment pounder mentioned was best for me for the front . I shortened mine to old bronco specs , barely narrower then the Grand but i ran into some issues with the center section being to close to center . It works but id rather went old wagoneer width as suggested else where in this post . shaft cost more but thats the way it is .

There is no point in building this on stock shafts the D 44 uses the same u joint you have now . Want it strong enough go to 4340 shafts and a super joint CTM or Yukon super joint , OX somthing that will hold . You will all ways have a weak link , may as well design it into the build . I went with stock lock outs . Should be my weak link and easy fix on the trail . Make no mistake this is a huge undertaking even with fabrication skills . Cost ran about 2 grand with shafts , gears Yukon super joints and 1 ton chevy steraing no labor , did all my own work .

Putting a 8.8 in the rear is a easy project . The Ford explore is a bit narrower then my Jeep . That was over come with a simple spacers . I run a stock 8.8 stock shafts and so on . I have no issues with it and im running a V8 and 36 " TSL swampers with a locker .

While the 8.8 has been in this jeep for quite some time the HP 44 is just being finished up , cant say for sure that it will be bullet proof .

IN the next few days i will post up photos of the 44 in the Grand .
 
#15 ·
Honestly, if you are running the tire/gear to break an alloy stub shaft and CTM joint, you should either:

a) not be wheeling ever
b) not use the skinny pedal so much
c) upgrade to a front 60 becaues you have way too much power, tire, gear, and skinny pedal useage to use a front 44.
 
#21 ·
Holy rattle-can job over the entire thing - even the discs? That's stupid expensive anyway and its not even an F-250 axle, either. You can see that its cast right here:




You want that axle, but with an 8-lug pattern.
 
#24 ·
We were talking about the nature of the axle housing previously, so that was what prompted the 8-lug comment.

It would help to know if he already bought wheels or what pattern they are. The route I would go would be to sell the 8.8 and buy an F-250 set (with the D60 rear), pick up some H2 rims to go with the axles, and run the 37's. I bet his 37's probably aren't 17" diameter, though.
 
#25 ·
Nope, 15". I don't have rims for anything yet though as I was waiting until I have my whole axle "situation" taken care of first. I'm trying to get axles, and find someone to help/do the work for me, and get them done by march/april so that I can get them under the jeep, and get the tires on come late spring. I have been traveling for work a lot lately, hence why I am waiting until the end of December/beginning of January to get this project going.
 
#27 ·
You won't be able to clear the brakes on the F-250 axles with 15" rims. In that case, you should look for an axle like you found on eBay (just not that one) that has the 1/2 bolt pattern or look toward 1980+ FSJ D44's.


Or... Hmmmm... I'm going to end up with an empty F-250 housing/knuckles and I also have a complete set of Ford 5x5.5 D44 knuckles/outers/stubs. All I would have to do is locate you some inners for the F-250 axle and you'd be golden.


Well shit, here they are - and they're good ones, too.
 
#29 ·
Hey, if you're willing to help me out with this whole thing, I wouldn't complain. Like I have already said, I don't know what would be best for me. I just want to take my jeep while it's still my DD, and start the build up on it, so that in another year and a half, I can go out and beat the crap out of it and have fun, and not worry about braking anything major (I know, that's not how it normally works, but I just want to get a good start)

I have a budget that I feel shold be adequate for the job, I just don't have the place to do it, the tools to do it, the time to do it, or to be quite honest, the knowledge to do it. I'm just you're basic mechanic. I can do most things with cars/trucks except fabrication. I'm not opposed to going full size (It's only like what another 6-8 iinches wider right?) That is actually why I started this thread, because i didn't know what I should do.

PP, if you have parts that you think I could use, and/or can help, please by all means, let me know. You're not that far away from where I'm at, and from posts I have read, you seem to be very knowledgable, and seem to sell a ton of parts to people who all seem to be pretty happy with them.
 
#28 · (Edited)
I was suprised that Spromart didn't have that in stock. But you did :tonka: I would narrow it though and run your 8.8 out back with adapters. Use the housing and outers from PavementPounder and buy some aftermarket waggy axle shafts. You can run it fullwidth but is not to pratical if your rig sees any street time, ask how I know :thumb:
 
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