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Jareds mini tj build

17K views 109 replies 18 participants last post by  jared 
#1 ·
So my bone stock 04 tj se is gonna get the works over the next few months (I hope only months)

My goal is 35s on only 2 inches of lift max (aiming for 0" lift) gaining clearance with well chosen upgrades, so this is going to be a low cog build with mostly bolt on parts, but with potential for easy upgrades to a nicer longarm suspension if I see fit (nth degree)

So first up is the new genright gas tank. 1" more clearance, heavier skid plate, and clearance to stretch the rear suspension up to 5" (hopefully future upgrade)

Also on the parts list I just ordered is a new smittybuilt xrc 8k competition winch to save a little weight with the synthetic line.

And the 35x12.5r 15 NFC km2s on some new procomp black aluminum wheels - very sexy.

The future mods to come are front and rear d44s with 5.13 or 5.38 gears and locked on alloy shafts. I'm thinking the new g2 assemblies unless I can find a used set since I only have a d30/35 now.

The nth degree tummy tuck or ucf aluminum skid.

The 35s can't be mounted on my stock jeep so metalcloak arched fenders, rockers, and rear corners with 4" flares will give the clearance needed for them. Yet to be ordered.

That's pretty much it for right now. Any suspension changes will be minimal at the moment. Will be updated with pics as parts arrive.
 
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#33 ·
Dropped my fenders off at glendale powder coating this morning. For just tge steel fenders in semi gloss black only 65 bucks. Hoping to have them back before the weekend.

Tummy tuck delivery is scheduled for tomorrow, hope im home to recieve it.
 
#36 ·
I took some measurements of my jeep stock, just so I can keep track of everymod I do to measure if I gain or lose clearance.

The lowest points of my jeep right now are the diffs and the shovel. All measure up at 8".

The gas tank originally had 9", now it's at 10" at the lowest point and 11" at the rear. But it's partially suspension gain since the jeep is now sitting higher also in the rear due to no spare tire mounted.

With the 35s on it measured 12" to the bottom of the diffs.

So we have 3 1/2" gained in the front
Should be between 6-7" at the belly with tummy tuck
And around 5" at the gas tank.

My jeep does have a more noticeable rake on it now, a front spacer may be on order, or find my rubi front springs and test them out.
 
#44 ·
So the metalcloaks went on without a problem. Took me quite some time being careful to not scratch them up.

Not sure why I'm having so much trouble uploading pics. Stupid phones.

Anyway it looks great, the tires turn lock to lock in the front, only rubs on the swaybar at full lock, when I install the links I'm hoping that takes care of that, if not an anti-rock type bar might be in order.

Hopefully I'll get to forklift flex it at work Monday and measure for bump stops. The rear is looking like some limited uptravel due to the tires, but I can't be sure until I check. I haven't measured height yet either so I'm assuming it still has the front rake and needs a spacer to level it out.

But the first drive was so fun, first time ever having to step up into a tj while it wasn't on jack stands.
 
#49 ·
And a test little flex in the driveway looking for clearance issues. There is a few



Here is the front of the rear wheel well, the tire gently kisses the sheet metal, not sure how I can remedy this yet. It's not touching in pic, but I watched it touch during the travel up the rock.


This is passenger side at full steering lock, touching the outer edge of the front fender while the rear is on the rock.


This is the swaybar at full lock. An antirock type should give more clearance here right?? Not really wanting to remove it for dd duty. (even tho it's not hooked up yet still, soon tho)


Here is the other side while on the rock.
 
#51 ·
I believe the one mag that did the article on 35's with no lift got adjustable arms and moved the rear axle back one inch for clearance. Seems it is a must to go that route.

I don't see a need for a front sway bar with such a low cog and now it has a wider stance also.

Looks good :thumb: I hope to do the same type of setup on mine.
 
#53 ·
Yeah adjustable arms would be nice and would help, but I do plan on a 5" stretch in the future so unless I find cheap used ones it's probably gonna have to wait. Although with the tummy tuck waiting to get installed I might HAVE to buy some to fine tune the pinion angle.
 
#52 ·
So in order to fix these clearance issues I'm not 100% sure on how or what to do. It's going to be costly to do things properly.

I have some rubicon springs I will probably try in a few weeks if I can find them, see what they do for lift anyway.

Or to help the clearance a 3/4" spacer in the rear for a bit more height and a 2" for the front since it's lower in the front. That should level it out.

I've been even putting a bit of thought into a 1" body lift, but I would rather not, just not a fan at all of them.

Or I've been thinking about the rough country progressive 2.5" coils. Any body use those??

I still need to measure for extended bump stops. But in the flexed out pic the front was already touching the bumpstop ever so slightly, so my uptravel is going to be limited if I need to add alot of spacers
 
#54 ·
Got on the forklift today





The rear comes off the ground 21" and doesn't touch the bumpstops at all before the body. Probably only needs 1" maybe 1.5" added to stop the rubbing.

Now the front only comes up 16" before it's going to touch the fenders. I'm thinking like 1.5" bumpstops for the front, but if I do that I have like only 1" of uptravel before it touches the factory ones. I need to the the spacer to level out the front more. That will help I think.

The more I think about it, the better a 1" bodylift sounds for more clearance.
 
#59 ·
Got a 150 dollar 4wparts gift card from my last order before Christmas :)

So I ordered a daystar 1" body lift, 1" spacer for the front, 1 1/4" bump stop spacers, a winch cover, and tree protector. Hopefully all in stock to pick up tomorrow or Friday and install over the weekend.

Hopefully I'll be done for a while ... Yeah right
 
#60 ·
The fenders were by far the easiest bolt on I have put on my jeep. Everything just unbolted then bolted back up. No modifications necessary.
The instructions are dead on and cover everything even hood clearancing. Lots of pictures too. Just follow the order of instructions and you won't have any issues

The only issue I had is since you put the round head of the bolts in the fender well to not cut your tires, one of the locknuts holding the fender to the aluminum wheel well contacts the hood when it's closed, just the lip under the edge. Just bend it up with some pliers no problems.
 
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