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1976 Jeep CJ5 Resto/Mod

21K views 76 replies 30 participants last post by  Hackfabrication 
#1 · (Edited)
Posted up a couple pics in the introduction section, here's some more. Project started as the classic $500 Jeep I towed home in December 1996:


I scrapped the body, and picked up a 'new' OEM steel tub from Willys-Overland in Toledo. This was welded up from NOS stampings. The fenders, dash, and windshield frame are all aftermarket (Taiwan) stampings. The grill is a genuine Jeep (Chrysler) item. Hood is the only remaining body part from the original Jeep. The corners and rockers are from 'off your rocker'.

I've also recently added highback seats and a tilt column (no pics of that yet):


I had the stock frame boxed and a six-point roll cage built (Performance Off-Road in Alexandria, KY) along with rock sliders, although I don't have a pic of the tub with the cage installed.

The axles are stock narrow track Dana 30 / AMC 20. I converted the front to disc brakes using parts off an 84 CJ. The rear has Moser 1pc axles and 11" drums. Both have been regeared to 4.56 and have ARB lockers with stainless steel lines. They're hung on a BDS 2.5" SUA lift with ConFer 3/4" shackles. It's riding on a set of 32x11.50x15 TSL/SX tires, which are a disappointing 30.5" tall. Gonna go to a 34x9.50x15 TSL for replacements. Or go metric with 16" wheels.

Using the M.O.R.E. mounts caused some 'issues' with the stock skidplate/crossmember. I ended up ordering one from Throttle Down Kustoms and having to custom machine a new stabilzer stud because the Energy Suspension trans mount is 'taller' than a stock mount:




It also placed the clutch fork arm real close to where the combination valve was supposed to mount:


I ended up relocating it to get better clearance:


Also had to 'cut the trans opening a bit':


All the brake lines are stainless steel that I purchased from Inline Tube (along with the combo valve). I'm debating whether to go vacuum or hydoboost. Money is naturally a factor.

The motor is a Ford Racing GT40 5.0L Crate Engine. One of my 'better' purchases off eBay. It came with the GT40 tubular manifold, B cam, 65mm TB, 24# injectors (and a whole lot of other Mustang stuff that got sold). I added the Ford Racing F-150 headers (had them Jet-Hot coated), and the Saginaw PS pump conversion was done with a bracket from Wild Horses and a Ford Racing AC eliminator kit. I removed the smog pump and smoothed off the bracket. The alternator is a 160amp unit from RJM Injection Technology as is the computer harness. I'm running a Goodyear 74.75" serp belt. The starter is a mini PMGR I picked up locally:






I'm hiding the ECM (A9L) behind the dash above the heater box (which was totally rebuilt and upgraded to a 3spd fan):


The VSS is mounted on the firewall and connected with two cables from Lokar. You can also see how I Hack Fab'd the stock Mustang throttle cable:


I hid the Inertia Switch inside the Tuffy Glovebox:


The transmission is a Ford T18 that I picked up (literally off the ground at Stevenson's in Highland-Damn I miss that place!) for $35. It was rebuilt, the stock CJ T18 shifter adapted to it, and I used the Jeep T18b mainshaft along with an adapter from Advance to mate it to the rebuilt, TeraLow'd, and twinstik'd Dana 20:


The clutch is a LuK 11" pro gold. I Hack Fab'd up a clutch linkage bracket for the z-bar which allows me to use the stock Jeep CJ mechanical clutch:


Here's how I worked the return spring issue:


The custom intank fuel pump for my TrailQuest 23gal tank (not a 'bolt on' by any means) was Hack Fab'd from a stock Jeep CJ pickup/sender and a stock Mustang unit (another eBay item with a 255lph pump):


I was going to use stainless hard lines along the frame, but they proved too difficult to bend. So I went with stainless braided line from Russell and an Aeromotive inline filter:




Lot's more to do.......
 
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#36 · (Edited)
...hope mine grows up 2 look like this some day
If you're even considering half the stuff I've done...Let's go get a couple :beer: and let me talk you out of it :rolleyes:

...give a shout if you ever need a hand
Thanks! Stop by anytime (either bring :beer: or call ahead...:beer: doesn't have a long shelf life at my shack). If the temps get into the 40's, I'll be pushing the heep out of the garage to check the fuel system. Bonfire anyone?

very nice work
Thanks Again.

...Keep the updates coming.
Thanks, I'll update as I go. Only wish I'd owned a digital camera back in 1996 when I got this heep. I haven't scanned all the pics I took on my 35mm into the computer yet. Although there weren't that many.

Next two things are the radiator (I'm hoping for this Friday-we'll see) and the hydroboost. I spoke with Van at Vanco yesterday. He's got my order (and my cc #), so perhaps by the end of this month I can get that installed. I need to plumb the PS before I install the radiator.

Unfortunately, I'm two months behind were I wanted to be this year. Mostly due to a daughter that decided she wanted to go to school in PA, and the 'mishap' at SLSD:
 
#37 ·
Some Work

Okay, I finally got a break from snowblowing the neighborhood, and the outside temp is where I can warm up the garage a bit. I spent yesterday chasing all over the tri-county area looking for 'that part', and found it in Troy. Anyway, I bent up some prototype power steering tubes:






The problem I'm facing is that the adapter fittings for the flare to -AN don't 'fit' under the lower radiator tank. That's why I need to Hack Fab up some custom ones.

I FedEx'd them off to Gene's Automotive (Tubes N' Hoses) in MO. He'll machine bend up a duplicate set in stainless steel, and braze the -AN fittings on the ends.

All this so I can plumb in the hydroboost set up from Vanco....And, no I don't have the originals. And no, the aftermarket replacements wouldn't work either. Hence...Hack Fab to the rescue.
 
#38 · (Edited)
I got the finished tubes back from Gene's Tubes N' Hoses in Missouri. He bent up a set out of stainless steel, silver soldered the -AN ends on:




I'll Hack Fab up a bracket to support them along the frame rail when I tear the CJ down for paint.

Now I'm dealing with the brake issue. I just ordered the fittings to run braided line from the master cylinder to the prop valve. They should be here in a couple of days. Then, it's start measuring and making up the lines.

More later...
 
#40 ·
Well, I managed to get the hydroboost installed on the firewall:


The -AN adapter fittings on the prop/combo valve were not too difficult to install. Just took some creative gymnastics. I had to order the -3AN DOT approved lines, so it'll probably be next week before they come from Missouri. I did get one of the power steering lines fab'd:


But I've got to wait for the shop to get some more SS braided line in. Hopefully tomorrow.
 
#42 ·
I've got to give a ton of props to John at Plymouth Rubber and Transmission. He helped me with the SS hoses. Here's what got done today:






I'm waiting for the inline power steering filter to arrive UPS from Texas. So when it shows up, I'll splice it into the rubber line. When the master cylinder to combo valve lines get here from Missouri, I can 'think' about bleeding the brakes.

Hope to do an engine start before the end of this month....
 
#47 ·
Got the DOT ss brake lines on Monday:


These have a clear vinyl cover over the stainless steel braid. I also got my inline power steering filter, which I'll splice into the rubber return line. After that, it's figure out the radiator hoses, fill everything up with their specific fluids, add 6 gallons of premium to the tank...And try to start it up.
 
#48 · (Edited)
Well, I determined that the stock Mustang mechanical fan was not going to work. It's too big, and actually hangs down below the lower radiator tank. So, it's time to think electric.

Went to Scrap Busters and loaded up a wheelbarrow full of fans. I got a Contour dual fan, two 3.8L Taurus fans, and two T-Bird (3.8L & 4.6L) fans. The Taurus fan could work with some Hack Fab'n to the shroud. Here's what I was thinking: Taurus fan, CJ shroud:


Put them both together:


Looks factory. There would be a bunch of trimming to the Taurus shroud, and then some 'filler', either vinyl or rubber, to bridge the gaps. But it might work. But it's a real power hog.

The T-Bird fans are 18" fans. Way too big for my 16" radiator core. But I bet they really move the air.

Now comes the Contour fan:




Damn that's sexy! And only a minimum of trimming:






It slid into my Extreme 4-row radiator (core has been offset 3/8"). And fits 'like a glove'.


I'm researching both the DCcontroller and the SPAL controller. But right now I've got the fan torn down for cleaning, some additional trimming, and Hack Fab'n up the mounts.
 
#49 ·
I'm researching both the DCcontroller and the SPAL controller. But right now I've got the fan torn down for cleaning, some additional trimming, and Hack Fab'n up the mounts.
I run the FK35 from DC Control with my taurus fan. it will take a while to get the controller but it is well worth it. it works flawlessly and is painfully simple to wire up. very nice guy and always responded to my emails pretty quick.
he is a one man show so it takes longer and people bitch. my temp stays regulated very well even in hot weather in stop and go traffic. I would recommend that controller. you aren't far from me if you want to see the controller in person let me know.
 
#50 ·
Yeah, I'm just down Warren Road. My son has a house on Cowan, so I'm over in the area quite a bit.

I've read the same about the Delta Current Controllers: That they are the best, but you got to be patient.

I ordered the FK35 and a few 'accessories' on 4/28. His web site says ten business days. But from all the bitchin' I've read, it'll probably be longer.

Unfortunately, he (Brian) has only responded to one of my emails. I know he probably gets a thousand emails a week. Most from 'lookers', not buyers, I imagine. I'd really like to know when he might be building/shipping my stuff. What I really wanted to purchase was the entire setup (other than the fan) that he puts on the Contour dual fan. It looks like he's got a line of Ford connectors to make an integral harness all the way to the fans. But, he hasn't gotten back to me in the last four days. So I just ordered everything that I think I will need....And now I wait. I'll try sending him another email this evening from the same email address as my PayPal account. Perhaps he'll respond to that, since he's got my money.

It was the same way with Ryan at RJM Technologies when I ordered my 5.0L harness. He's also 'impossible' to get into any sort of 'discussion' with. But his products are worth it, IMO.

Obviously, neither one of them are producing these products as their primary source of income.
 
#51 ·
agreed i think it is an on the side job for them. I waited iirc about 4.5 weeks to get my fk35. it will come, just need to be patient. in regards to the emails, there are two, sales@ and support@, I would cc my emails to both addresses. from my discussions with him he seems like a person who gets irritated with impatients. after all the good things I read I was willing to wait. glad I did.

the best thing is that on the fk35 is you can wire it up for override but will automatically come back on if you forget to click the switch back to on. since the controller temp adjustments work off jumper pins he explained how to wire the override with some wire and a small switch. no power, the switch just controls which jumpers are activated. in the off position it raises the fan on temp. the same switch controls the full blast option.
 
#52 · (Edited)
I can wait, because it is the product I want to use on my project. But even I have my time constraints/deadlines.

Rant on:
I don't consider a customer that's inquiring about a shipping date to be impatient. Or someone that's sent numerous emails inquiring about a product they would like to purchase as being impatient, because of no replies. Not in todays economy when you've got to watch every dollar you spend.

Trust me, I've had vehicles tied up for months in 'Good Shops', with only 'Soon' as an answer when I ask when they might get it done. That's not how you treat your customers. I don't care who you are, what you make, or how good you (supposedly) are. I'm an adult; treat me with some respect, be honest with me, and don't screw me over. Otherwise you get what you give. Tenfold.
Rant off.

SPAL is coming out with a new version of their PWM controller. A Version #3 or V3. Supposed to ship in June, but I couldn't find any technical information on their website. It's priced at $120, but A1 Electric has a pre-sale price of $99 if ordered by May 11.

If the Delta Current item doesn't show up by the middle of June, I'll order from SPAL.
 
#53 · (Edited)
Some Progress

Well, the Delta Current Controller was a no go. If anyone is interested as why, send me a PM and I'll tell you the 'story'.

So... Flex-A-Lite to the rescue. Their new controller will work with fans up to 35amp continuous draw. More than enough for my dual Contour fans, and probably enough to run a 3.8L Taurus fan. Here's some pics of the install:


Mounting the controller:


Wiring/placement of the 30amp Maxi fuse for the controller (other is main power fuse):


The FAL controller uses a regular temp probe, which I could insert into the water neck on the 5.0L:


Routing the switch wires:


A bit of conduit to finish it off:


Switch and lights mounted:


The controller will allow for an 'Always Off' and an 'Always On' position. It works by grounding the unit. I wired it to a DPDT switch with a yellow light for 'On', and a red light for 'Off'.

The FAL controller uses PWM to soft start the fan. It basically 'hits the motors' with a brief pulse of voltage to get them started, then gradually brings up the power. No need for relays. Downside: It makes a 'rattling' sound when it first starts. I don't think with the engine running, that I will ever hear it.

I also got the radiator hoses fitted, dumped three gallons of coolant in, and I'm just about ready to attempt an engine start.
 
#54 ·
It's Alive!!!!

And now it's dead.....

I got is started. And had it running. I actually did this four times... Now it won't start. However.... It sounded really good! Probably something easy (naw, probably something expensive). But for now I'm having :


And a lotta:


Tomorrow I'll toss something to the Jeep God... Probably my neighbor's barking-ass dog....
 
#57 ·
Back from the dead...

Took a week to diagnose the problem: Bad pickup in the TFI distributor. And since the Ford design is such a gem, you've got to remove the dizzy from the engine, drive a pin out of the gear, press the gear off... All so you can pull the shaft out and get at the stator/pickup. I dropped $170 at NAPA for a new stator and TFI module (old one checked out, but I'm gun shy...). Put it all back together, and IT RUNS!!!!

I hope... Anyway, it's started more than the four times it did previously. I got the timing set, but now the power steering pump is growling at me. Probably has a bunch of air in the system, since everything is either new or rebuilt...

The FAL controller on the Contour fans, starts them up at 164*, so I'll need to adjust it to closer to 180*, but I'm happy with it's operation. Even runs for a brief period after shut down to cool things down.
 
#58 ·
I changed my pickup in my mopar 360 at the dunes. I was loosing spark.... I could see it on my laptop that it would drop to 0rpm than shoot up. This would cause the injectors not to fire. Sooo I had to pull the dist. drive a pin out, and do exactly what you did. Not fun. But didn't take long.... and yeah that didin't fix the problem lol.

I like your build though... awsome detail work! GREAT ENGINE!!!
 
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