and to the do it myself i will if i have to but id rather have someone do it that can balance it, it is mainly a trail rig but i do enjoy takin it out for a cruise every now and then
I've built them for street vehicles, only had one guy saying it was vibrating (I had already told him before hand he should take them in to get balanced)...turned out he had other problems, and the shafts were fine...
I use a set of v-blocks and a dial indicator and get the runout as close to zero as possible, though I have never gotten one quite to zero...
After dialing it in and welding it the only way to get the shaft to zero is to dial it again after welding it and heating it red hot it the high spots and colling it with a wet rag. This will shrink it on that side and bring it to zero. This is the way I was taught to do it when I worked at Toledo Driveline/Certified Powertrain/Fleet Trucks building drive shafts.
I can hold 75 and not feel it...but past 80 you can. I mounted it, tacked it, spun it and taped it straight, than welded it. I actually have to do it again tomorrow as I have the indexing wrong
trans fluid for the win for sure! I put 1/2 qt. in mine... its out of balance a bit, but with the trans fluid you would never know! No vibes at all going down the road.
ive used dynotec fawktec before. ill never use them again.
cci was awesome to me and would use them again in a heartbeat. just wish they were closer. i need to lenghthen my rear d-shaft and was thinking about not doing it myself for once so it would balance nicely.
If you never listen to me again listen now, Shaftmasters in Lincoln park, I have had them build my jeep shafts, shaft for my 1000+ hp maverick, ls swap trucks i have done ect. Quality work, fast turn around, extremely and i mean extremely knowledgeable, and great price point.
Sleeved and lengthened my zj rear, no prob 75 on 75. No big deal.
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