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Deranged 3.0

37K views 250 replies 42 participants last post by  robn69 
#1 · (Edited)
I am once again re-building my truck. I had a pretty good combo last year that performed quite well. It did however have its weaknesses and areas that needed improvement. Instead of just fixing the few things I decided to start from ground zero again and use my 79 F-250 frame and power train as a platform instead of the weak ranger frame. I will be moving to 42" TSL's on H1's, Dana 60 Front w/ 5:13 and detroit locker, Dana 80 rear w/ 5:13 and detroit, 460 CI BBF, built C6 manual, and np205.

I am hoping to have this done by April/May 2010.

These are some pics of the start of the project which meant a complete dis-assembly of the truck and scrapping out the unneeded parts.
 

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#2 · (Edited)
Brake System Upgrades

Pics of rear disc set-up and hydro-boost.
 

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#3 ·
New Tires/Wheels/Axles/Powertrain

Various Pics of other new components.

New heater box is a non-A/C version off old B2 at LKQ to make some room on the firewall to fit the BBF.
 

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#4 ·
Tires and Axles Under Truck

Finally forced myself to stay up late and put the new axles under the truck.

Front is a HP Dana 60 with dually hubs and high steer, rear is a dana 80 dually converted to disc.





I know my u-bolts are too long, I won't be using them anyway.



As it sits it is too long and too tall in my book. It is a 126" WB after shortening it once from 132". I think I want to push the both axles forward and chop the back of the frame and end up around 116"-120" WB. The height is way too tall since the rear frame rails come to my chest and I am 6'2". I will adjust the height after the cab gets installed and I have the coilovers ready for mockup.
 
#7 ·
Thanks, I am finally getting to build the truck I have wanted since high school.

I am stuck at work a lot lately so it may be a while yet before I get much more done.

why the Dually axles ?? just wanted a ton of width or what ?
The only Dana 80 that I could find was a dually so that is why I started with a dually rear. Then I bought some H1 wheels that wouldn't clear my steering arms. I had 2 choices, re-center the wheels, or run dually hubs up front and a small spacer on the rear. I haven't measured the overall width outside the tires yet but it should only be a little wider that a SRW set-up with the wheel offsets.
 
#10 ·
Thanks, I keep changing my mind on the end result. I think I am leaning towards a truggy style build instead of a full truck. The reason for this is directly related to the other question you asked, I want the ride height as low as possible but still be able to clear the 42's at full stuff with 14" coilovers. I don't think I could be much lower than what it is right now if I keep the true truck form. At least with the truggy I can get the front and rear fenders out of the way.


I should be able to get away with about a 26-30" ride height. The ride height on the ranger last summer was 26" and I had plenty of room with the suspension I had then and 39" boggers. I know I will need a little more room with the new tires and a suspension that will actually flex.:rock:
 
#11 ·
Cab is now mounted




Cut the back section of frame off:





Welded on the new rear frame cap which will also be my mounting plate for the tube back-half.



The "wings" that extend out past the rails on the cap plate will be bent around and welded to the side of the frame rails for extra strength. I will also be boxing the frame and adding some extra inside gussets to make sure everything stays put.:rock:
 
#13 · (Edited)
Definitely NOT I don't know if enough fat chicks would fit in the bed of a truck to make those damn springs even move. The fronts don't move at all when I set the weight of the frame, a 460, c6, and np205 (which is about 1300lbs) on them. AB Spring says they are correct for the truck I just need more weight. HAHAHA I should put pics of the shackle and how it is pulled so far forward that it hits the frame. I decided I was done f-ing with them to make the springs right and will be running coil-overs.
 
#15 ·
Got the rear frame plate bent around the outside of the frame and welded.



Started boxing the frame, have one side done. Most likely will get to the other side this weekend.





I also cut what was left of the inner fender supports off of the cab.



I hope to have the frame finished by sat. morning and re-mount the cab. Then I will take final measurements for the back-half and draw it up in Bend-tech. If everything goes well and I have the right amount of ambition I make be bending tube on Sunday. :woot::woot:

I have also decided that I will be moving the frt axle 8-10" forward, this will put the tires about 2" forward of the stock frame horns. I wasn't going to move the front axle due to steering box relocation issues. The stock F250 box already need to be moved ahead 2-3" to line up the the highsteer arm. Which meant that moving the axle forward 8" would have made it necessary to notch out my bumper to clear the gear. This would not look good at all.

Then I remembered that I have a 77 F-150 gear, this box was meant for crossover steering and mounts to the outside of the frame instead of the inside. I also puts the pitman arm out towards the front of the truck instead of towards the rear like the 250 gear. This will allow me to mount the F150 gear in the stock location and line-up perfectly with the steering arm after the axle gets moved forward.
 
#17 ·
It will be Triangulated 4-link front and rear with 14" coil-overs. It will be a truggy with a cage that runs from the front to the back.
 
#21 ·
Me either. It needs to warm up outside though. It is very hard to get a lot done when you are freezing you azz off.
 
#24 ·
Thanks, I have some new pics I need to get up here.

I ended up calling Ballistic to check on my order after I got off the phone with you. Most of my order will be at my house middle of next week. :woot::woot:

Just got the new summit radiator, Derale dual fans, fan thermostats, and a brake distribution/adjustable proportioning valve.

Now I just need to get motivated to get the cage done and can start installing these new beauty's. Not sure what it is but new bling helps motivate me to work out in the cold.
 
#25 ·
The big brown truck has been visiting quite a bit lately :)

Gears and Lockers:



Dana 60 vs. 80 Detroit locker. (The Dana 80 is on the Left)


Radiator and Fan Set-up



New LED signal lights



New Cab floor covering

 
#26 ·
Got some new parts made today with the help of jeepnxj96. Thanks a lot!!!!

Tube adapters


Roll cage Tube Clamps


 
#29 ·
I got them from Summit Racing. The rad is Summit brand and the fan setup is Derale. I can get you Part numbers if you like.
 
#31 ·
#33 ·
You are welcome, I used one of these radiators on my truck last year when it had the 302 in it and they work great. As long as the core was clean i never had temp. issues. On top of that the quality is very good, not sure what would make a more expensive radiator better since these from Summit are more than adequate.
 
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