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My project TJ Bigger, Badder jackstand wheeler

45K views 199 replies 62 participants last post by  whiterhino 
#1 · (Edited)
'97 4.0, 5 speed. Let the build up begin. :woot:


Just how I bought it. Have the engine, trans and t-case with it too.


Checking to see how much body lift I want:stan:


Nothing like digging right into it.

Here is the plan:
d44 scout axles-5.38 locked/spooled cuz I already have em
still gonna be 4.0 but with nv3550 instead of AX-15
d300 t-case to go with axles, 4:1 kit later
Fox 2.5" 14 inch travel air shocks all 4 corners
tube front fenders/comp cut rear
Dual triangulated 4 link rear/3 link front
extended wb to 106" - 108" ish
38 TSL's
Hydro steer
winch
blah blah blah

Newer plans:
Dodge kingpin front 5.13's, Detroit
14 Bolt rear 5.13's, spool
Redo the rear of the frame
add to the cage
other various stuff
 
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#28 ·
I also had to cut my underside of the frame rail a bit to allow the control arm to get full suspension movement. I only have 4" up-travel but the control arm would hit if I didn't notch it a bit. It now has clearance for 6" up-travel.



 
#30 ·
I got my cage all finished this weekend. First time using a tube bender, turned just as I expected. I know most of the stuff I'm building for this could be bought, but I get more satisfaction out of building it myself, plus I don't have the money to buy all the parts off the shelf.







I also started bending up my tube fenders. I hope to be done fabbing these up tomorrow.







 
#34 ·
I built the frame like that to put the shocks directly underneath the frame. I wanted the frame to support the entire weight of the rig. I was originally going to tie it into the roll cage but didn't feel that it was strong enough to support the weight of the rig. I am running 2.5" 14 inch travel fox shocks.
 
#35 · (Edited)
Finished the tube fenders up and made my front shock hoops today.


pic of the battery bracket on drivers side. I have the same bracket for the other side as well. I have dual Optima yellow tops going in this. With a battery on both sides it should help distribute the weight evenly.


Pic of the cutouts for my shock hoops. I know there are other/simpler ways to do it, but I feel this is stronger than most setups you see.


I sunk the tube halfway into the frame and welded around it. Should be more than strong enough.


Pic of shock mount at the axle end. 5/16" thick shock tabs. Little overkill but it shoudn't bend any. lol


Finished product with the hood down. I will run the typical spreader over top the engine on the hoops as well.
 
#39 ·
Lower the control-arm mounts on your front axle. You need more seperation. I thought it would be fine and I just had to cut mine off and lower them because the axle was "wrapping" with hard braking and generally felt unstable. I lowered the mounts below axle centerline, and the difference was incredible. Do it now, while its easy.
 
#40 ·
Actually the pic is decieving, there are no upper links in there in this pic. That is the drivers side LCA that you see in the pic. I am running the same setup as a couple other people that I wheel with, it has proven itself over time and this is the setup I'm going with. I will keep it in mind though if there seems to be wrapping when finished. Upper arm is 25.5", lower arm is 36.0" with 4" sep at frame end and 9" at axle end. Thanks for the tip.
 
#41 ·
After many late nights and long weekends the Jeep now sits on all 4's :woot: What a relief that is. Still a long way to go but it now feels like I'm making actual progress.




Put my dads bone stock CJ next to it for kicks.


Departure angle


Approach angle, the hitch will be cut off the front. My tires will be past the bumper.







 
#47 ·
Thank for all the compliments, it means a lot to hear people say good things about the work you do. I'm extremely happy with how it turned out so far, especially since this is my first ever build and I did 100% of it with my own 2 hands.



I would assume they are the large ends. I bought them at Mad 4wd. They are about 2 5/8" dia. with the control arms being 1.5" 1/4 wall DOM. I have a couple ideas floating in my head about a rear bumper but nothing permanent yet. I open for suggestions since you see a lot of builds at your brothers shop. I was thinking running a hoop from frame rail to frame rail under the rear of the tub by the rearmost body mounts and tieing 2 tubes from that going forward to the crossmember where the frame starts to turn up. Then I could make bumpstops off those. I already have the trans, sorry I can't trade you. It would be a thought if I had an auto though.
 
#44 ·
Oh ya, I saw you're putting an NV3550 in instead of the AX15....do you need one, I'd be interested in a trade? I actually want to get an auto for my jeep instead but have been to lazy to find someone that would want to try and trade me. Mine's a 2000 and has ~60k on it.
 
#51 ·
Got a chance to build my inner wheel wells this weekend.


Passenger side. I will have a bolt on cap to cover the top of the frame. It needs to be removable to get to the shock bolt and schrader valve on the shock for tuning.


Drivers side



 
#52 ·
When I get a fill neck for the fuel cell I made and put it on I will sink the cell halfway into the floor.






I scored an insta-trunk for cheap that will be put in the back. I will seal it up tight which should keep the fumes out of the passenger compartment. I think I will put some sound deadener on the inside to quiet the pump down too.
 
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