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Deranged 3.0

37K views 250 replies 42 participants last post by  robn69 
#1 · (Edited)
I am once again re-building my truck. I had a pretty good combo last year that performed quite well. It did however have its weaknesses and areas that needed improvement. Instead of just fixing the few things I decided to start from ground zero again and use my 79 F-250 frame and power train as a platform instead of the weak ranger frame. I will be moving to 42" TSL's on H1's, Dana 60 Front w/ 5:13 and detroit locker, Dana 80 rear w/ 5:13 and detroit, 460 CI BBF, built C6 manual, and np205.

I am hoping to have this done by April/May 2010.

These are some pics of the start of the project which meant a complete dis-assembly of the truck and scrapping out the unneeded parts.
 

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#149 ·
Isn't that what EVERYONE does???? Not this guy, I don't want that set-up for a couple reasons: 1 - it's too long 2 - It makes for a stupid-heavy combo 3 - It's ridiculously expensive and 4 - it just barely doubles your final drive ratio.

I have already begun building my version of a second low range. But you'll have to wait until its finished to find out what it is.:naughty::naughty:
 
#150 ·
Hmm i like my setup.
I will agree it is long but i have a 112'' WB and it works well for me. It is heavy but its also very strong compromise that i can live with.
My whole 203-205 setup cost $500 that includes everything got a new ORD adapter and billet shaft of a local and the 203.
It just barley doubles it but that makes a hugeee difference barley any throttle and i can crawl a staright ledge.
Im interested to see what you have to come up with 1356 205 of some sort?
 
#151 ·
Fixing that "pesky" exhaust issue

My fenderwell exit headers and mufflers running along the frame have become an issue by getting caught on trail obstacles. This has led to a few new bends in the system and an increase in decibel levels.:sonicjay::sonicjay:

The old -



New headers -


I had to notch the passenger frame rail to clear the collector, but they fit -



The starter will be getting a heat shield, and the rest of the plumbing should be done by Monday - providing the weather cooperates. (It sucks not having a garage door tall enough)

There are a few other items that are being added and some others being modified, all in preparation for the Pit Trash shootout.
 
#153 ·
#161 ·
Apparently it doesn't want to go to the Comp Saturday

I had a few simple relatively unimportant items that I wanted to button up for saturday and had plenty of time to finish these items. UNTIL....

I spent a couple hours Monday messing with the transmission AGAIN, it seems that I have a horrible case of converter drain-back. This causes the trans to take quite some time to build up pressure and actually move. It happens every time it sits for a few days or more. Once the pressure builds up it will be fine and perform flawlessly until it sits again. This is just extremely aggravating, it needs a check valve in the cooler line but I haven't had much luck in finding anything that isn't in the neighborhood of $80. All the less expensive ones have been discontinued and are now unavailable.

I have accepted having to deal with that issue and the only negative to the problem is a leaky dipstick tube when the fluid level rises in the pan. Today though, I went out to hopefully get my rock sliders started and noticed a puddle of fluid under the truck. I initially wrote it off as being trans fluid the escaped from the dipstick, but once I got next to the truck I saw that it was under the front axle which is a long way from the transmission. It had developed a coolant leak overnight somehow, but I had no clue where it was coming from. There was a puddle on the timing cover under the t-stat bypass hose that runs between the pump and intake manifold, I figured it was just a pinhole in the hose and a simple replacement would fix it. I decided though to make sure by cleaning the area and fired the engine up to find the source. Here is the great part - the damn water pump housing is CRACKED under the boss for the bypass tube. EXCELLENT, now I have to put everything else on hold and R&R a water pump which will unfortunately end up being a 2-3 day project due to my work schedule. :(:(
 
#164 ·
That didn't take long to surface :sonicjay::sonicjay: It seems factory shafts don't particularly care for the power a BBF can dish out. You can't see it in the photo but that shaft is almost split in two along the length of the shaft. Both inner and outer shafts that are currently in the axle are also broken, but not one factory warn lockout was damaged - go figure. :confused::confused:

Are you still running factory shafts in yours??
 
#167 ·
Yeah, we didn't hold anything back. In hindsight maybe I could've let up a little.
 
#170 ·
For sure, working on finding suitable upgrades. I am going to go full Chromo 35 spline, just not sure how expensive I will be able to afford. Who makes you outers?
 
#172 ·
Some areas I used a cutoff wheel and just trimmed the overhang flush to the cab and I used a spot weld cutter where I wanted to removed the whole panel.
 
#176 · (Edited)
No Thanks - $1300 for just the shafts, then add $600 for u-joints that will hold up will get you to $1900 total. On top of the shafts and joints I would need to buy a different locker or get the parts to make mine accept 40 spline shafts. My normal messing around driving style doesn't warrant anything that massive, my Comp driving style is a bit different but a good set of 35 spline chromoly shafts and solid u-joints will do quite nicely. As long as I avoid unleashing the 466 when at full lock everything should be fine.

"Poor people cannot afford cheap things." Not calling you poor, just sayin.
I know what you're getting at - cheap shat breaks easier and leads to more cost in the long run. I didn't mean that I was looking for the cheapest alternative by any means, I will at least end up with what Beefy has from JBG - which I think are actually Yukon bits not being sold under the Yukon name. I have heard of a few guys running these and even getting the same warranty that you get with the higher cost Yukon name.

If anyone knows for sure either way, I would be interested in some clarification. Suppose I could just call them, but I am not to the point where it really matters yet. I figure by late May - early April, it will be time to make the purchase.
 
#180 ·
Not really. Just waiting for parts to show up and trying to find some freetime to get something done on it. I am also, waiting for slightly warmer weather so I can paint the axles and link arms before I re-install them. Should have an update soon though, my other projects should be completed and out if the way soon.
 
#182 ·
Small Update

Got the axle truss, new shock mounts, and axle shafts done. Radius arms have also been repaired. Axle is back under the truck and ready for a test run.


 
#188 ·
Thanks Guys!! All the new stuff works quite well, but as always there are a couple minor issues. The new truss took up the area that was needed on the housing to clear the frame end panhard mount, it currently has about 3" of uptravel before the mount contacts the truss. This makes for a rather rough ride and doesn't allow for much speed or any bit of an aggressive driving style. I will be heading back down to the shop in the next couple weeks to remedy this issue as well as install more goodies on the axle as well as the rest of the rig.



I went with RCV shafts.
 
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