Great Lakes 4x4. The largest offroad forum in the Midwest banner

any foxbody people here?

6K views 52 replies 25 participants last post by  paul keehl 
#1 ·
looking at possibly doing a 351 swap and went to a couple sites and already got banned from one cause of some wlb. just looking for info and possibly some specs.
 
#34 ·
Do a Cummins swap, for crying out loud it would be so easy....
 
#39 ·
I dont know what people consider bad info, I only posted what I have done in real life.I didnt just come up with the stuff I typed in off the top of my head, or from magazines.
I posted parts and actual swaps that I have personaly used, and never had any trouble with making a reliable,fast,good handling all around street car.

Plus I tested my stuff out on both autocross tracks and some drifting whenever I could.
Also, My first 5.o fox was my daily driver, so it had to be reliable. Then I sold it for a cobra, and bought a jeep for a D.D
Any things that I posted were actual parts, and swaps that i did, and theres no bullshit on my part.
Im not saying to go out and do the exact same things I wrote, not saying the stuff I posted was the best in the world, or the best product on the market. But it worked well and lasted a long time under my heavy foot. And it was just and idea of what you can do to make a nasty street car.
 
#41 ·
Im with ya, I like the 302. Id take a 302 built up slightly with EFI and a good tuner like moates quarter horse, and a 60-1 turbo. And itll run 10's all day long.
But now I changed over to the 4.6 modualr motors, and they dont have the low end like the 302's or pushrods, but man they love to scream with boost.
 
#42 ·
My fingures felt like typing, so Ill post this if you go with EFI, these are some tuners I have used with good outcome.

If your gonna go EFI, and also do some engine work, your gonna need a tuner.
There are a couple good EFI tuners with a fairly easy learning curve. One of The easiest is probally the Anderson PMS.

The PMS which is a piggyback tie-in ecu that is capable of being swicthed to standalone, And alos has unlimeted capabilitys and is easy to use with a handheld control.
Check out my videos on it:http://www.youtube.com/cobra96svt570#p/u/7/iLvKdLGbkU0 or www.andersonfordmotorsport.com

Another good tuner is the Tweecer R/T which is a chip that is installed into your ecu, then connects by cable to your laptop, were you can tune it with a special software. You can adjust any parimeter in the ecu from timing to fuel, shift points, you name it. But has a steeper learning curve. You can download the software and check it out. www.tweecer.com

There is another simalar type setup that involes a chip, and does all the same stuff but is said to be even better. Its called the moates-quartehorse. Bothe of these are live chips, which means you can make adjustments on the fly, unlike a burnt chip. They also can have a switch with from 3-5 settings with all diff' tunes you can change on the fly.

A popular software for the Moates-quarterhorse is: http://eecanalyzer.net/ This software can be used with both the tweecer and the quarterhorse.
Another option, is the full standalone well know as the Megasquirt. Check them out at DIYautotune.com or google megasquirt.
There are many more options out there for the ford EECV, but they are the most know for there price, and options.
 
#44 ·
If you are stuck with E7 or the gt40p heads, you might a well stick with the 302. A good cylinder head is everything on a 302/351. My old 88 GT went 12.0@114 on the motor, and 10.9@128 with 8 psi. TFS heads by Modern Cylinder Head, E cam, TFS intake.


Damn you, you make me miss my Mustangs!

Evo3D
 
#49 · (Edited)
yea, they been using the same rear end setup pretty much from 79-95 even to 98.
If you look for rear control arms, it lists 79-95/98.(besides amount of splines,lugs,posi or non posi,sway bar dia., disc or drum, etc etc.) But The common ford 4 link 8.8 is and awsome setup. The 8.8 is a real strong rear, I dont know what they hold up to hp and torque wise, but I know guys running up to 6oohp with moser axles and a factory ford racing posi out of cobras with good name brand gear oils.

Like the other said, there are lots of swaps you can do, you can get and explore rear, sn95 rear, lincol rear, etc. etc., there all basic 8.8 4 link setups. As for the front 5- lug you can use sn-95 parts, or lincoln parts. The 01-03 cobra lower control arms are designed diff' then previous year cobras and allow more clock to clock turning, alot of drifters swap them in.

I was running bout 450 with stock cobra rear & 4.10's. the only tihng that broke was the spiders, the posi cluthces wore thin,(to many drifts and burnouts plus age) and the spiders get side to side play. After some new clutches it was good to go.
Subframe connectors are a day and nite diff'. My cobra handled like a UPS TRUCK! before I did the sub-conectors and eibeich lowering springs. After that all my freinds called it the county nascar.
 
#50 ·
A great upgrade for the 8.8 is the C clip eliminaters. They'll give you piece of mind just knowing your not going to spit an axle out the side.

I'll throw some pics of my buildup soon. It's a 85GT mini tubbed, skinnykid cage, 3/16" boxed torgue boxes, through floor frames with waterfall tie ins, tubular front K etc. 540" big block with PA SuperComp C4 TB. Lots of small body mods that only Mustang fans would notice. Engine is at the dyno shop now and I should have it ready to go in a couple weeks. Getting anxious.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top