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Zr2 sfa swap?? Need in depth advice

5K views 27 replies 11 participants last post by  crazygrady127 
#1 ·
Ok I've already got a 1 ton swapped suburban with a cummins going in so please no go d60 comments

This zr2 is my dd/ wheeler I'm ready to get rid of the weak ifs it has a tired 4.3 in it which I have been looking for a small diesel to put in it probably a v3.3 which is about 518 lbs dry 80 hp and somewhere in the 200 ft lbs depending on who you talk to so its not gunna be super heavy and its not gunna be a hotrod.

So what axlee would be best for the situation I'm in? I've heard toyota axles but burfields dont like much weight? I've also heard d 30 but alot of ppl talk down on them don't know if its cause they make to much power or what?

I just want to get some advice before I drop cash, this build is on a tight budget cause I'm still building my other rig. I'm just wondering what you guys would suggest for a very conservative motor build,
Zeth
 
#9 ·
This. A 44 simply does not belong under something that weighs 5000 lbs. The average starting weight is 4500lb and they only get heavier, mine weighs in at 5260 trail ready with me in it. The extra weight has defiantly shortened bearing life and other things. Which really sucks when it’s your dd, like mine was. Right now I'm on my 2nd set of Timkins in a year with Mobil one grease, and they get repacked almost every other oil change. Of course that’s if I was lucky and didn't have to tear down the axle for some other reason.... damn thing is almost as bad as the Ifs was for warn out and broken parts (ball joints, shafts, u-joints, and hubs).

Right now I have a fully polished 44 and I can just now actually go a weekend without breaking. Oh and polished 44 = WAY more $$$ than a stock 60. So my vote would be tons, it may seem over kill right now but trust me its necessary.
 
#13 ·
I agree with doing a 60 first since I've done both, but you did something wrong with your 44 or you just had bad luck.

I would guess to say that I've put tons more wheelin miles on my 44 than you have so far and probably harder on it as well since I'm not nice to my rig at all.

ran spicer joints all the time with yukon shafts. it was a DD for almost 3 years that way and never had bj issues.

not trying to pick an argument, but just trying to let him know that D44s have lived under heavy rigs for many years. mine was easily 5000#+ at that time as well.

I do believe in doing a 60 first and be done since I've been there done that, but he's looking at running smaller tires and not wheelin too hard. I guess he has to be completely honest with himself about how he will use the rig.

ran this type terrain all the time with 37s on a D44
Wade beats on his rig more than anyone I know! :thumb:

Hey Justin do you have any straight body panels left??
 
#28 ·
Wade beats on his rig more than anyone I know! :thumb:

Hey Justin do you have any straight body panels left??
I will second that Sam , And I don't think there is any straight panels left on it now !! :thumb: And Wadey is right if your going to build a D44 just go with tons !! I would have actually saved money if I would have done that :poke: !!
 
#4 ·
im running a hp44 from a 79 f250 in my zr2 blazer thats sas. you can pick them up for around 150 bucks found mine for 100 dollar bill and most are 3.55 gears or 4.10. another thing to consider is what tcase your gonna run for what side drop. just hit me up ive been threw the sfa on a zr2 so i can tell you all the little tricks from steering to brakes.
 
#6 ·
Sorry forgot to mention leaf sprung, I do fab work as a side business mostly barter stuff for work but I'm not worried about the fab just gathering parts such as leafs, axle, (rims if I have to change bolt pattern) then steering components

As far as tcase I plan on running stock auto trans (4 l60 right?) And id like to keep this as stock as possible keep as much of the donor truck as possible for budget reasons, so stock t case
 
#7 · (Edited)
run a ford HP44 for the front and be done. cheap, easy to find parts, and pretty good up to 37s (when running chromos)
will need to run adapters on the rear to convert to the 5-5.5 pattern

ran mine with D44/9" for about 3 years on 37s and was trouble free. wheeled it all over the country.

now I have big boy axles :finger:


go to http://zr2usa.com and do tons of reading. we have lefts tons of info there over the years
 
#14 · (Edited)
I know Justin's build pretty well considering we (zr2usa) watched/helped with it starting a little over a year ago. :thumb:

again, not trying to start anything, but just trying to help show the OP the D44 will be fine for what he is using it for. he needs to try and figure out the future of how he will use it and try and build it once. i went through the D44 phase and wish I went with the d60 first only to save money. I got bit by the bug pretty bad and love wheelin hard.
 
#16 · (Edited)
to keep it on the cheap 44 be your best bet the main thing to look for is flat top knuckles on the axle. pretty common for the 78-79s so you can get it machined for a steering arm. if your only wanting to run the smaller tires find you a set of stock jeep wagoneer springs for the front. the other thing need to look at your tcase depending what year it is if the front output is a slip yoke or if its a fixed. if its a slip just need to find a np231c from a early 90 s10 or blazer and swap the guts and jb conversion makes a awsome sye for the rear output. do you plan on moving your front axle forward at all?
 
#17 ·
I swapped the 231 internals into my 233 so I had a fixed yoke on the front, but no reason to do the sye for the rear. never did mine and no issues. it can't hurt, but money can be spent elsewhere.

no leafs here. ran ZJ coils on mine.

seriously, get to zr2usa if you have not already. all of our info is there.
 
#25 ·
I Know i'm going to catch hell for this but i ran a D30 high pinion on my zr2 in this thread i built. http://www.greatlakes4x4.com/showthread.php?t=204336&highlight=ZR2+JACK48461&page=3 i did do the yoke swap the Wadey recomended worked out beautiful. I drove mine for show boating around town though and mild wheeling. The guy that currently has the truck since I sold it put a mildly built 5.3l in it new custom front driveshaft and harden front shafts and he goes to the dunes alot. (not mud) Mild trail riding and hasnt broke anything. But between buying the axle used all new brakes. Using my stock hub bearings on that axle and having spacers made outta 1/4" plate to keep my offset right for the brakes and redrilling the lug pattern in the xj rotors i had less than $600 in it. Thats counting a used set of 3.73 gears to match my rear. I did leave it open up front though.
 
#26 ·
Just check out the build and pics for ideas you may be able to coil spring pretty reasonable. Idk how heavy yours will be or anything or what your plans are just showing you an option. But if you plan to wheel hard the old saying will always hold true go big or go home. Just throwing this out incase your just going for something different to tool around with as a DD
 
#27 ·
I'm in between doing theaxle swap first or doing the engine swap the truckhas 200k on its always Beenmmaintained tho the motor is gettin tired I found an hp d44 and Dana70 with 3.55 gears but I am unsure if the 4.3 will run with those low gears ? +31's
 
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