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Slo-Mo Rebuild

92K views 497 replies 65 participants last post by  JohnnyJ 
#1 · (Edited)
A few people asked me to do a build thread so here goes. I skipped through some of the details so if you want them just ask.

The XJ joined my life as a clean 72K mile stocker in January 2003.



Quickly made some changes… long arm lift, tires, wheels, gears, lockers, steering, brakes, etc.



Wheeled it for a few years and had a lot of fun, made bumpers, skids, etc.
Then decided to get more serious.

Out came the rockers, in went sliders.



I also spent a long time researching and designing a hybrid cage. I took my plans to JCR and they agreed to build the cage and some rear doors for me.



Then I put some paint on it - Hemi Orange.






I drove it around and wheeled it like this for a while and started to become unhappy with the “performance” of the 4.slow. I was never impressed with the stroker motors for the gain vs. cost and about this same time a friend put a 5.7L Hemi in his JK and another friend put an LS1 in his XJ. I drove them both and was instantly hooked, I HAD to have a V8.

I could not find an LS1 that was reasonably priced and I wasn’t thrilled about putting a scoop on my hood to cover the LS truck motor intake so I looked and read, looked and read and looked and read some more. Finally, I learned that an LSI intake could be mated to the 5.3l and with some accessory rerouting it would stay below my hood line.

Pick this up from a friend at Premier Auto Parts in Cedar Springs. It’s a 2005 5.3L 45K miles and all accessories, PCM, harness, TAC and pedal.



Found an LS1 intake with injectors and fuel rail on ebay and dropped it on top. That’s when I learned the water pump would be an issue too.



I picked up and LS1 water pump and started playing around with accessories rerouting and came up with this. I was never thrilled that the upper hose was captive, but it worked and I was up against the clock to get something done.



One of the things I really wanted to do was keep the Jeep instrument cluster. I spent a great deal of time searching, reading and experimenting but I was unable to make it work. Edit: The details start on post 95.

Ultimately this is what I ended up with and I am pleased with it.



Somewhere around this time I bumped up to 35’s. So, I was enjoying my new V8 and wheeling with a D30/8.25 with stock shafts. Although I never broke anything, the Internet made me think I would every time I went out.

Picked up a D44/9” from a ’75 F100 for 200 bucks and went to work narrowing and building them. OX/Detroit, alloys, 300M joints, 35 spline rear, 5.13’s, high steer, and hydro-assist. I did a write-up on those and you can find it here.
XJ: Narrowed D44/9" Swap - Great Lakes 4x4. The largest offroad forum in the Midwest


Everything was going great, trails were getting harder and harder and I was having a blast when the Internet again made me think my transfer case would never hold up to the abuse I was giving it. I started researching upgrades and decided to build my 231J into an HD version using a 6 planetary gearset and a wide chain. I did a write-up on that and it can be found here. 231J HD Transfer Case Upgrades - Great Lakes 4x4. The largest offroad forum in the Midwest


So, that pretty much brings it up to date. However this week I came across these babies! 38X12.5X15 Super Swamper SX, thanks Daryl.



So, now I know what I will be doing for my winter project this year…
 
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#11 ·
Winter plans include a set of HD Offroad mid-stiffies and building my own fronts. I have the Ruff Stuff leaf spring perches with the three holes, so I am going to move the axle back 1" with that. Then I am going to open the rear wheelwell up similar to the T&T Project Low Wagon on NAXJA. They put 37" tires on 5.5" of lift, I have about 8".
 
#17 ·
Yes. The 9" has a 35 spline Detroit, so that will never concern me. I loaded the D44 pretty good - OX, chomos, 300M u-joints and truss so it should hold. Most likely I will put a set of the Synergy ball joints in though. I know there are people who break axles and ball joints (or both) just going to the mall, I drove/wheeled the D30 without issues and the only thing I did to that was put an OX in it.
 
#25 ·
Drew,
Just run what you have and see what happens, you may not run out of shafts. You may be surprised how well it holds up. The Internet is a scary place and the Jeep boards will have you believe that D44 is going to blow up on the way to the grocery store. You're welcome for the parts, glad they are going to good use.
 
#28 ·
List of things to do...

I have the mid-stiffies, just need to clean the unibody and weld them on.
Front coil mounts coming from Ruff Stuff.
T&T High Clearance Inner Fender Panels coming.

The inner fender panels will require a side mount for my Optima and a new mount/position for my PCM.

I picked up a new engine harness too. There are a few things that I would like to change from the first go at the harness. I also plan to strip the XJ harness of everything I can to clean it up under the hood. This harness is a 2004 vs. the 2005 I currently have so I will need to swap the alternator to a 2004 also.
 
#30 ·
Got the high clearance inner fenders from T&T Customs. I was going to make these myself but I am glad I didn't. For the money these are really nice pieces.



Before



A bunch of rivets to drill out, then some prying an pounding and it was free.



New panel installed welded in.



I did have to make the triangle piece behind the headlight bucket.



From the inside.



Now the other side, it will be a little harder with the fuse block and battery.
 
#35 ·
I decided on the battery, I am going to do a remote in the cargo area. I ordered up 15 feet of 1/0 welding cable, lugs and a battery box. I think the flat area will make an excellent mount for the Chevy PCM and additional relays.

I also got the 38's mounted. They actually fit better than I thought. The front won't require much trimming at all. For the back I already have the RuffStuff leaf spring perches with the three holes and it's currently in the center. So, I will use the aft hole to stretch it an inch and I won't have to mess with my gas tank. I do have plans for opening up the rear wheel well to make some room. Once the axle is moved back I will have a better idea how much room is needed. I picked up 1.75" more clearance at the differentials too.



 
#37 ·
just some advice i wouldnt cut any higher then the top of the factory fender, mines cut to about 4" below the rear quarter glass and is a little excessive, look in mini beast build youll see what im talking about as im running his old chasis now.
 
#38 ·
Drew, there are a lot of pages there, I'll look when I have more time. For now I don't think I will need to cut much. That pic is with stock opening and flares still mounted. I have a lot of room to play with before I need to consider cutting deep.

Going to pull the engine harness today so I can do that over the next week along with headlight harness.

Advance Auto is supposed to have a 2000 Dodge MC for me today also so I can measure it and hopefully be able to use it. The Internet told me that I could use a 2002 up Dodge MC, however it is VERY tall and there is no way to fit it under the stock hood. The 2000 looks more promising.

These guys showed up yesteday from T&T, they are really nice pieces.

 
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