Great Lakes 4x4. The largest offroad forum in the Midwest banner

Corner guard questions/thoughts

4K views 33 replies 22 participants last post by  Chiefwoohaw 
#1 ·
Do you feel that the corner guards people have been putting on their Jeeps need to be made out of 3/16? I would think 1/8 would be more than sufficient considering most people have nothing on and the tub doesnt get that damaged except down real low on the corner when coming off a ledge. Also, would being made from 3/16 aluminium be more or less of a consideration in your purchase? I am going to make a set for myself after trying to buy a set but have been unsuccessful. Most are made in cali (shipping) or nobody has them in stock, which makes it clear nobody makes them in house, they just have them made somewhere. I have the tools to do it but kinda figured it would be easier to buy rather make considering my time and almost a full sheet of steel. Let alone trying to figure out the bend needed to make everything still line up after being cut. Please discuss.
 
#2 ·
UORC has some there. I was just in there and was looking at them. However, if you make some and want to sell some, I'd be interested...

I would like to see flush mounting hardware though versus the machine screws.
 
#6 ·
3/16 steel isnt a problem, I was just curius what people thought about the extra 1/16th of an inch makes a difference or not. I have you in mind on this Tippy, I need a set, you mentioned wanting a set, and there are a couple others too. Plus everyone seems to be having problems getting them in a timely manner. I just want to provide these for the people that need them in our area.
 
#9 ·
x2.

I have been thinking about making some from 1/8", with the thought in mind that if they ever did dent too bad I could just make another set from 3/16".
I also dont see myself denting them because I dont take the Jeep out. It just sits in the garage while I keep upgrading it.
 
#10 ·
That what I was thinking, 30 pounds is a lot. Not that my jeep will be a light weight by any means but it can't hurt. The aluminum would be even better but I would be worried about rocks and stuff gouging it and sticking. Jim, whats your thought on getting the radius pressed? Would I need a custom die made ($$$$$$) or is that possible with something common?
 
#15 ·
I'll check later on the radius. I was thinking of building a hydraulic press of sorts but lying on its side using dies possibly made from pipe (machined and heat treated) so it would be like a one shot bend. I'll think more of it as I drive all day for work, thanks for the thoughts and keep them coming! I gotta go to work.
 
#16 ·
i have seen alot of 3/16ths corners bend i was actually going to add tube to mine for extra support and im tying them into the cage from the inside 1/8th is no where nere enough metal not to bend in a hit. my aluminum tube was very bent when i got it from lanfing on a rock. and that 3/16 i believe.
 
#18 ·
I might opt for thinner steel with tube reinforcement in the right places. Regarding steel versus aluminum, here are some simple numbers to go by:

One advantage of steel is that between the yield point of mild steel (around 36,000 psi) and the ultimate tensile failure point (around 60,000 psi) there is quite a large plastic range (around 24,000 psi or roughly 40% of the ultimate strength), permitting steel to endure deflection without failure, so permitting considerable ability to absorb energy.

Aluminum 5083 H-116 plate, as an example, has a yield strength of around 34,000 psi and an ultimate strength of around 45,000 psi. You can see that the plastic range of aluminum is considerably less than steel (around 11,000 psi plastic range for aluminum, or roughly 24% of the material's ultimate strength).

So, that is one of the reasons that aluminum dents easier than steel. For a vehicle that was going to take abuse, I wouldn't use aluminum.
 
#23 ·
I made mine out of 10 gauge (.134). I figured I only really wanted it to protect the body from ripping like an aluminum can when I rubbed it on the rocks. Even 1/4" would bend or buckle when hit just right. I gave it some thought last year about producing some of these because I have the equipment, but wasn't sure if the econmy would support it. For mounting I just punched some square holes for 1/4-20 carriage bolts. Can't give you real world info on if they would hold up (haven't wheeled it in rock since its been done) but I feel they will hold up fine.

 
#27 ·
We just made deaner a set a week or so ago. We did his with 3/16th and made them custom. We opened up the wheel well and such. We also gave him Steel flairs to boot.

We don't have them on our site yet but we do make them. Jeepfreak, bring that 2A over and we can get that one done also.
 
#29 · (Edited)
Here is what JP fab has done for mine. they made one-off crushers ( there first time ) and have so far made them look comparable to anyone else. They took almost 1" out of the front, 2"s out of the top, and 4"s out of the rear.
Pricing is comparable to everyone else, but a heck of alot closer than anyone else.

id rather give a local Michigander the money then some one in Cali or who has there shit made for them. These pictures are not the finished product in which I myself have not seen YET!

JP Fabrication has done well so far by me, first time builds take alittle extra thought and care and so far they have accomplished what they needed to! I give JP fab a thumbs up, good luck and I hope this helps you out!!! Oh plus they are easy to work with and do what you ask from them.

what do you guys think?






Cheers
Dean
 
#30 ·
I had a customer of ours try to make some aluminum corner "bling" panels for his TJ. Did it on his own time at our shop, I still have the die we made to bend them with, don't know how close it is to the correct radius, I could check. We went dumpster diving and found a hydraulic cylinder that was damn close and welded crap to it to use on the press brake. The idiot test fitted them on my TJ, scratched up my paint! But I couldn't say much cuz he's a customer...

Personally, I'm leaning towards more of the crush it out of the way group than the keep it together group. If I do anything, it will be something like 1/16" just to cover up the fender a bit after sliding the axle back further. But that I can bend by hand...

I think if you designed it to "not grab" stuff by possibly angling in the lower lips or adding tubing around the lower edge, it might add more strenth (by adding another plane to bend against). But who am I? I would rather have rubber fenders! :) I suck at design!

Lucas
 
#33 ·
tab I want a blank set of 1/8 inch yj full corners with no holes or fenderwells how much you charge me? basically just for the steel and the labor to bend it. or if i give you a posterboard template of what i want how much then?

PM if you want, very interested though
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top