sheet metal help...

[artistic_gore]

First off does anyone have an easy method for removing the stock junk goo on a toyota floor? My problem is I am chasing rust all around and where the floor is rusty this stuff peals like no ones business but where the floor is in tact i can scrape and scrape and not get all of this crap up.

Also is there a way I can put a lip into the metal on the floor so the new pieces I will be welding in will have somewhere to sit and more material to grab onto instead of just doing butt connections.

Oh and if I find that things are too bad how hard is it to replace the whole cab?

Thanks,

Bryce

[Haggar]

Heh..

#1: Lots of dry ice to free the tar, then chip it out with a hammer.

#2: A flanging tool can stamp a lip. The make pneumatic ones.

#3: Not too bad, easier than doing repairs, most often...

The hard part is finding a donor cab. Thats why my 83 (which is first generation like yours) is riding around with a 2nd generation 1985 cab on it. My old one was rotted and finding a solid first gen cab in michigan is tough.

Cab swaps can be done in a weekend. The biggest thing is unhooking everything, then reconnecting it to the new body. Steering, brakes, fuel lines, wiring, etc, all needs to be disconnected. Lifting off the body wasn't too hard, except for a few stubborn rusty bolts.

[VonDirt]

cab switch is no big deal. unbolt everything, call a few friends and lift.

theres a few versions of the sound proofing junk, some goes with a heat gun, some goes best with dry ice and a mallet. its no fun no matter how you cut it. im not quite clear on metal lip question. a return flange can be put almost anywhere but you can't form into it because the surface area is maxed to the form it already is. if youre attaching anything with much weight youre going to want a backing plate more than a lip anyway because it will tear like cloth as an attachment point.

good luck