Toyota buildup questions

[artistic_gore]

Hey folks, at this point I am 99.9% sure that I will be picking up the 1980 toyota pickup from the for sale section either friday the first or monday the forth. So...I am tryin to come up with a work list and I am looking for suggestions. First and foremost I am planning on building a headache style roll bar tying into the frame through the bed floor (I want to retain the bed) I also want to bob the bed. I'm not too sure how far I want to bob the bed though, I want to retain some of the functionality of the truck so how short is too short? After that I would like to replace the rear springs probably to stock. Also in it's first week in my hands I will be swapping in the 22r that comes with it. Here's where the questions start. Everywhere I read it says for performance keep the 20r head, port and polish, bigger valves, and mild cam. Is there anything else I should do to the head for perfomance? I'm pretty new to the game of enhancement I usually just repair to stock. Also when I have the 22r apart I was thinking a re-ring and hone would be in order. Should I bore instead of hone the engine I don't know the miles but I figure some new rings and a once over with some stones should be fine, am I wrong? I think that's it for now. This thread may be but you have to start somewhere. Oh yeah I will probably be getting a 3" lift in the future to accomodate 35s. Is there anything else I should do to get some meat under the truck suck as a body lift?

Thanks,

Bryce

[Haggar]

Wow, lots of questions..

I wouldn't bob the bed too much. A 1st gen bed is a bit more tricky to re-weld, given the rail shape to it.

I think, in general, you want to look at your goals with the truck. If you want to do any major wheeling, then you really want to look at crossover steering. That needs about 4" of lift, though.

In terms of a lift, except for a specialty shop like Marlin Crawler, All-Pro, etc, the big name lifts aren't very flexible at all for a toyota. The common and time-tested method is to make your own lift.

I run the original rear spings in the front, and chevy 1/2 ton springs out back, thats plenty lift to clear my 36s.

With much lift, you will find your front driveshaft angles to be pretty steep, though, since you have the short transmission. Good excuse to buy a doubler.

In terms of the motor, its all your choice. The 20R head I believe had bigger valves than the 22R head. I just run stock 22Rs/REs in my truck. No matter what you do, its a small 4 cyl. Its decent but will never make a ton of power.


Go to www.pirate4x4.com, find the forums, and read the FAQ in the toyota truck forum. Most of your questions can be answered there better than we can explain.

[artistic_gore]

To be honest I asked the question over here to avoid getting flamed on pirate. I think local folks seem to be nicer, don't know why. I got in trouble at work yesterday for printing all appr. 150pgs of the toyota faq (thank you taxpayers) so I could have it in my garage for reference. I may steal your spring setup; do you have any more elaboration on DIY lifting? Also I understood everything except doubler. Do you mean to make a double transfer case? I guess I will mull around online more to see what info I can find on lifting the truck. Heck maybe I can spend that $400 bucks elsewhere. Sorry jeeperz creeperz, no offense but I'm on a budget after all.

[roll-bar Bob]

1980 FIRST CHECK THE FRAME I WOULD HATE TO DO ALL THAT WORK AND HAVE IT SNAP ON YOU

[Haggar]

My truck is a 1983 longbed frame (1st gen) which was better than all of my 2nd gen frames, which were rotted to poo.

The key area to check on your frame is the sections all around the front hanger for the rear springs. That area where it bends up, especially on the inside of the rails. Get a hammer and a big chisel or screwdriver, and tap on the frame all over, looking for soft spots. I had to re-plate my frame in this area on the insides of the rails. My 85 trucks broke at the front spring hangers. Its all too typical for MI. I run a 2nd gen xtra cab on my truck, though, for the extra room, and my 83 cab was rotten.



The doubler, yes, a double t-case. The early transmissions were shorter than the later ones, which debuted in 1984. Most likely you have a L43 or something, although you might be getting a spare L52 in that deal? The L52 is the strongest of the early short transmissions, its what I run in my truck. The doubler added about 7" of length which helped me out a lot for my front drivershaft angle. My rear shaft is still 48" long.

The rears-up-front FAQ here at pirate answers most questions. For me, I run my stock 83 rears up front, with the overloads removed, and 3 leaves from an 85 rear pack added to them.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...ht=rears+front

I use 2nd mid 90s chevy 1/2 ton springs, with the overloads cut to 7" long to serve as a block. My setup is unusual, in that I use the stock shackle hanger, and then relocated my front hanger 15" forward from stock. This moved the axle forward 4" but I had a longbed, so didn't mind. My front axle is also 4" forward of stock, so I still have about a 108" wheelbase, which works extremely well offroad.

I fab my own parts, so it was cheap. I did my complete lift, including 13" travel shocks, front shock mounts (ford f250), marlin crawler extended brake lines, springs, etc, for about $300. Flexes/rides well for my trail truck.

The front springs are pretty much a bolt it. The stock rear springs are about 3" longer than the stock front springs, so running a boomerang shackle is a good idea. You can also use YJ lift springs, or Wagoneer springs up front as well.

The chevy rear springs require a new front hanger to be welded to the frame. All of my shock mounts are non-stock, except the front lower mounts.

[artistic_gore]

Allright here's a cheap ass question for you. Can square drive shafts be used on a DD? Or can I swap around drive shafts from different toys to achieve the length needed front and back if I do do a doubler. Or is this something that can't or shouldn't be done on the cheap and I should have the shafts reworked at a shop.

[Haggar]

For a daily driver, you need a real driveshaft in the rear. My square is fine for a front, I'd never go square for the rear. Square is only for long slip travel.

I built my own, but it does have some minor vibes. Great for a trail rig, dunno if I'd want to daily it. I re-tubed my stock shaft with 2-1/2" sch 40 steel pipe. Not that I have a lathe, I'll do my next set better.

I wouldn't want to daily drive any trail rig, though.

you *Might* be able to find another shaft thats the right length. Just depends on what you can find. Toyota driveshafts, like just about all stock driveshafts aren't very thick. I don't run any stock driveshafts on any trail rig of mine, they are too vulnerable.


In general, in 4x4s, its going to cost you. Old trucks need maintenance, and 4x4s break parts.

[bogginboy]

would you want to drive something on the road with dual cases? that dont seem liek it would work very well. i dont know a lot about 2 cases but id liek to learn more as well

[artistic_gore]

Thanks for the help so far Jesus . I put a down payment on the truck today so I am pretty set on getting it. Until then I will be digging for info. If I ever get too annoying or ask too many stupid questions just let me know. I really do appreciate the advice since its all new to me.

Bryce

[artistic_gore]

Originally Posted by roll-bar Bob

1980 FIRST CHECK THE FRAME I WOULD HATE TO DO ALL THAT WORK AND HAVE IT SNAP ON YOU

The frame still has factory black showing where the frame in that photo failed. I will still probably strip it and use rhino liner or some other coating to make sure it stays strong for a while longer anyway.

[Haggar]

Originally Posted by bogginboy

would you want to drive something on the road with dual cases? that dont seem liek it would work very well. i dont know a lot about 2 cases but id liek to learn more as well

Its not two complete cases.. its half of one case, with an adapter bolted to another case. Makes a reduction box.

Here's the reduction box (front half of the toyota case with the marlin crawler adapter)




Here's the whole transmission/crawler/transfer case all installed. 3 sticks.




You can see *some* of the buildup here, including the rear springs.

http://www.lordsofevolution.com/phpB...er=asc&start=0

Its our bowling team website, so most of the pics/writeup was for non techincal guys. But they like the truck, so I give them pretty pics to look at..

[Jeeperz Creeperz]

Originally Posted by artistic_gore

Sorry jeeperz creeperz, no offense but I'm on a budget after all.

Why are you apologizing to me?

[nmeinc]

Originally Posted by artistic_gore

The frame still has factory black showing where the frame in that photo failed. I will still probably strip it and use rhino liner or some other coating to make sure it stays strong for a while longer anyway.

they rot from the inside out. I've witnessed a couple that looked fine, but were crap.

[Haggar]

Originally Posted by nmeinc

they rot from the inside out. I've witnessed a couple that looked fine, but were crap.

x2

My 83 was like that. a 6" spot on the outside of the frame turned into a 36" long repair.

[artistic_gore]

Originally Posted by Jeeperz Creeperz

Why are you apologizing to me?

I was going to buy my lift kit locally but it looks like there are other ways of accomplishing it and it takes money out of the hands of local businesses. But I will be supporting the crap out of my local junk yard

[artistic_gore]

Do you think I could get a better idea of frame condition by looking at the width of the steel where there are bolt holes or whatever drilled through it?

[Haggar]

You are best to tap on it. Even non destructive taps will give you an idea, based on sound. If you look in my posted thread from my buildup, that is the area of most concern. Every toyota I've owned had rot there.

[artistic_gore]

Cool, it will be like sounding mount bolts on a diesel to make sure they are tight. With all this talk about wrenching and rebuilding bigmak's engine today I almost want to go back to being a mechanic.