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Old August 12th, 2006, 06:45 PM   #1
farm_boy
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chevy oil proms

ok i borht a 91 chevy 1500 with 350 but have oil lakes for one the intake leaks oil how do i fix it for two i put it in 4x4 and the universe fell off and hit oil pan put hole in it so i have a new oil pan but should i just pull the engine or do a in fram

 


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Old August 12th, 2006, 06:46 PM   #2
Sandals
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Try typing WTF you actually mean to say and we'll try to help

 

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Old August 12th, 2006, 06:49 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sandals
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SBC gasket kit, $30-$50. Yank, reseal, install.

 

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Old August 12th, 2006, 08:03 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by farm_boy
OK, I bought a 91 chevy 1500 with 350, but I have oil leaks. For one the intake; how do I go about fixing it, for two I put it in 4x4 and the universal joint fell off, hit the oil pan and put a hole in it. I have a new oil pan but should I just pull the engine or do an in frame repair?
fixed it

I would pull it. I've never done an oil pan in a later Chebby, but I've pulled a few engines. I don't think there's enough room between the crossmembers and the pan to make it a nice job. I'd rather pull it and clean it up on a stand.
The Intake can be fixed by pulling it off, cleaning it very well, and then re-installing. Use RTV on the endrails in place of the little rubber or cork gaskets. Put a 1/4-3/8" bead on the ends, let it dry enough to get a 'skin' on it, then smear a little bit of rtv on the intake side. The rtv will stick to itself. The large bead that you have let dry a little will not squish out after you let it dry for a while and will take up the gap that's on the intake ends. (that's where the leak is likely coming from. That's why I like doing it on a stand. You can make it a perfect job, and then drop it in.

On the oil pan, don't use too much RTV. You'll cause more problems than you want to deal with. Use a THIN bead on each side, depending on the type of gasket, and what the instructions tell you. If you use too much RTV it can squish into the pan, and clog your oil pump pickup. Not good.

Good luck.
Phill

Also, I don't know what style distributor seal that those engines use, but I know some use a little black o-ring on the shaft. Those get hard, crack, and leak. I'd get a new one, and then also use an old style SBC dizzy paper gasket too. Then you definitely won't get a leak there.

 

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Old August 12th, 2006, 09:52 PM   #5
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beleive it or not its easier to pull the axle and change the pan. I just drop the 4 bolts off the axles center section and let it hang down, then you can push it forward enough to get the pan off. if you still need more room then pull the 6 halfshaft bolts on each side, and don't forget to unplug the wires on the axle or you'll rip them.

 

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Old August 12th, 2006, 10:48 PM   #6
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Hmm, didn't know that. I've never been able to nicely remove anything from an IFS before though. They always wanna bind, pull, bend, etc. I guess maybe I just like pulling engines . . .

Maybe that's why I've had my engine out of my S10 3 times, yet have never changed the heater core in 7 years of driving with minimal heat

 

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